I reckon there's a mind zapper on the pier at phi phi - sensible people arrive but within minutes brains have turned to jelly. From observation over many years the zapper seems to be particulalary effective on 18-25yr old brainwaves. So this is a little guide for them to help combat the effects.

1) There's no such thing as a free lunch (bucket)! - those flyer's for free buckets might look tempting but don't kid yourself

a) that if you collect enough of them that you can go out and not spend a baht. As a rule of thumb, your pockets get emptier the more free buckets you comsume

b) that you won't get horribly wasted from the cheap liquor in them. The bucket hangover is in a class all of its own - one to be treasured (not).

2) Is it really that important? don't expect that your level of urgency or seriousness of a situation will be understood by any local. If you're anxious or angry you'll be speaking fast and not picking your words carefully so you can pretty much guarantee that while locals will nod and smile they'll be understanding very little of what your saying. Count to 10 decide if it's really important and if it is do it the Thai way in a quiet calm voice. If its not imprtant take 10 paces out to sea and scream - they'll already think you're crazy so nothing lost there. 

3. ooops I overslept! The whole island uses the same ferries, everyone coming early wants to check-in and everyone leaving late wants not to check-out - a potential no win situation for the resorts and guest houses. With no Harry Potter wands on the island they have to have check-in/out times to allow for room cleaning (that flourescent body paint can be a nightmare to clean up!). Anyway you'll not be the first person at reception claiming some mystery sickness and asking for leniency for vacating the room 2 hours late! You want it - ask for it beforehand and pay for it - simple! or at least be inventive and come up with something original and ask politely with a smile.

4. Pay for pp. Its a bummer that there are no public toilets on the island and so yes ones that do allow non customers to use them generally ask a few baht. So just bite the bullet and pay or go back to your room, the beautiful ocean and peoples doorways are just not cool alternatives.

5. Loves lost dreams - 'I want to marry you and have your babies' is a Thai pick up line and its no more true than any of the cheesy western pick up lines we're used to - but I'd love a baht for everyone who believes it. dream on!

6. One for the girlies - wearing next to zero clothing, getting wasted on buckets and flirting like mad all night will get you exactly what you'd expect - a one night stand! If that's what you're up for then all well and good but if its not think again about buying that 2nd or 3rd bucket.

7. Lost property - hmmm going out for a big night of drinking - now why would you wanna take your camera with all your precsious travel shots, your phone, your passport, your credit cards and all your money - baffles me every time i hear this one. 'i fell asleep on the beach and now I've lost evreything'. They've no idea who they were with, where they went or the last time they had the items. how many times cleaning staff in rooms get accused of stealing just so that a more reasonable insurance claim can be made rather than oops sorry i was p***d and lost it all. those safety deposit boxes are useful ornaments.

8. 1 2 3... knock out - one for the boys! If you're prone to a testosterone rush of mouthiness after several buckets, then take it out in the Thai boxing ring - don't take it to the bars. With so many different nationalities/cultures on Phi Phi, mouthiness can often be interpreted as an aggressive act and when there are buckets involved peoples ability to count to 10 seems to fade. Spreading the love is so much cooler and has some slightly nicer side effects.

9. Fireshow skipping - It's real fire - don't play with it - it hurts - for a long time after!

10. don't book a return ferry ticket for the next day - silliest thing on the planet to do - you'll miss the ferry for sure and probably not get to see the amazing nature around the island.

Phi Phi Island has to be one of the best places to go it solo on holiday. Its a small island so you bump into the same people quickly. Locals and businesses are friendly, so all you have to do is go back to the same place twice, pass the time of day and 'presto' you have new friends.

Even people holidaying in groups will often break away int he night times - its small and you'll generally bump into your group again later. The atmosphere in bars is social, people are up for meeting new people, so its easy to strike up a conversation with a stranger. The bar staff are paid to be welcoming, be sociable, stir up the fun, so quite different from the European bar.

If your penchant is for activity then there's kayaking, boat trips, rock climbing and diving, all of which you'll end up meeting other people.

Eating out can be one of the worst things for the lone traveller, but on Phi Phi there are lots of options many of which are not formal restaurants where you would need to have a book open to feel comfy.

Here everything is reached on foot so you'll never have that awkward experience of having gone to the wrong place.

Pick a resort with bar, gym & pool like Phi Phi Villa Resort - these slightly larger but informal resorts have staff who'll give you the low down on where to go or if its relaxation you want then you just won't have to go out at all!

I woke before the alarm around 7.30am to the sound of heavy rain on the tin roof and water plopping into the bucket catching the leaks. 

We get tropical rain here on Phi Phi Island, which tends to be heavy, but in short bursts but this was something different, like an English storm with the chill in the air and the big wind. Locals who have lived here longer than 16 years say they have never experienced anything like it.

I took a walk round the island, as there was no electricity - so nothing else to do. The east side of tonsai bay, where i am, seems to have been the worst hit of the main town area. huge trees have shed giant branches and the locals are busy with machetes hacking them into smaller pieces to cart away.

one thing you'd never see in England is people out int he rain sweeping up the debris, we'd wait till it stopped but at 7.30am everyone was out with their bamboo brooms sweeping up leaves,twigs and water int eh wind.and rain while being fascinated by the wild wet leaves which have splattered themselves over every building.

nothing here seems to be storm waterproof - including the concrete buildings, so even though the damage around the rest of the town is minimal there's still frantic mopping going on.

Bizarre though, that the only place i found a wave on the island was on the less affected Loh Dalum Bay side - big storms on an island, without waves, is something a Cornish girl finds hard to understand.

Midday, it's overcast and breezy but it's like it never happened.

Not two words that you usually associate with each other. But for those who just can't sit for more than a few minutes on the beach or a pool lounger there are some easy and some seriously more adventurous hikes to be done on Phi Phi.

First there are no route maps (Yet!) and the more serious hikes are not even documented and they are through jungle, so not for the navigationally challenged or for the lone walker.

 

 

For those who know Phi Phi - the town sits on a narrow strip of sand between two bays, Tonsai Bay and Loh Dalum Bay. Both have beautiful beaches, resorts and bars dotted along them. There are paths at either end which allow you to cut through to the other side which means there's a nice circular walk skirting the town and both beaches. Its an easy walk all on one level and you can figure it out easily or use one of the local town maps (available in most tour agents) - the walk is not signposted or marked on any map but its easy to work out.

 

Longbeach has a deep shelf which makes it very good for swimming and snorkeling, its also quieter than the main area of Phi Phi Town. Normally people staying at Longbeach or visiting will take a taxi boat, but it is possible to walk. Longbeach is located on the Tonsai bay side of the Island past the school around a couple of small bays.

 

 

The walk to viewpoint has to be the one well known hike on Phi Phi. Its a walk that meanders through the town and jungle up to the tip of the 'mountain'. From the top you get an awesome view of the town and island. There are 3 levels Viewpoint 1, 2 & 3 and during the day there are little shops/drink stalls enroute and other travellers to meet at the different stopping points. By far the best is to make it to the top, just for the view. There are a couple of alternate routes up and down, but these are marked on most maps of Phi Phi (which are often given away free at tour agencies and resorts)

 

 

The luxury resorts are located northerly on the east side of the island and generally people take taxi boats to visit these resorts and private beaches. I had often wondered if it was walkable overland. Turns out it is, my new friend Ruthie from the US has done it! The starting point is viewpoint and it's an unsignposted jungle walk to get there. There's apparently an extension you can do to cut across to the other side of the island, at the far end of Loh Dalum bay but i don't know anyone that's done that. Due to the time it takes it may be easier to do a one-way trip and get a taxi boat back to the main town (700-1000 Baht). There are no cafes/shops/houses en route and no people walking this, so it's not a good hike to do alone or if you are easily spooked or frail. Very few local people even know this hike can be done, so getting a guide would be difficult - it's definitely one for the adventurer. You'll need to take the usual 'off the beaten track' hiking precautions, cover up, take plenty of water, snacks, don't walk alone etc and you'll definitely be doing this at your own risk.