The 18-25 survival guide to phi phi island
I reckon there's a mind zapper on the pier at phi phi - sensible people arrive but within minutes brains have turned to jelly. From observation over many years the zapper seems to be particulalary effective on 18-25yr old brainwaves. So this is a little guide for them to help combat the effects.
1) There's no such thing as a free lunch (bucket)! - those flyer's for free buckets might look tempting but don't kid yourself
a) that if you collect enough of them that you can go out and not spend a baht. As a rule of thumb, your pockets get emptier the more free buckets you comsume
b) that you won't get horribly wasted from the cheap liquor in them. The bucket hangover is in a class all of its own - one to be treasured (not).
2) Is it really that important? don't expect that your level of urgency or seriousness of a situation will be understood by any local. If you're anxious or angry you'll be speaking fast and not picking your words carefully so you can pretty much guarantee that while locals will nod and smile they'll be understanding very little of what your saying. Count to 10 decide if it's really important and if it is do it the Thai way in a quiet calm voice. If its not imprtant take 10 paces out to sea and scream - they'll already think you're crazy so nothing lost there.
3. ooops I overslept! The whole island uses the same ferries, everyone coming early wants to check-in and everyone leaving late wants not to check-out - a potential no win situation for the resorts and guest houses. With no Harry Potter wands on the island they have to have check-in/out times to allow for room cleaning (that flourescent body paint can be a nightmare to clean up!). Anyway you'll not be the first person at reception claiming some mystery sickness and asking for leniency for vacating the room 2 hours late! You want it - ask for it beforehand and pay for it - simple! or at least be inventive and come up with something original and ask politely with a smile.
4. Pay for pp. Its a bummer that there are no public toilets on the island and so yes ones that do allow non customers to use them generally ask a few baht. So just bite the bullet and pay or go back to your room, the beautiful ocean and peoples doorways are just not cool alternatives.
5. Loves lost dreams - 'I want to marry you and have your babies' is a Thai pick up line and its no more true than any of the cheesy western pick up lines we're used to - but I'd love a baht for everyone who believes it. dream on!
6. One for the girlies - wearing next to zero clothing, getting wasted on buckets and flirting like mad all night will get you exactly what you'd expect - a one night stand! If that's what you're up for then all well and good but if its not think again about buying that 2nd or 3rd bucket.
7. Lost property - hmmm going out for a big night of drinking - now why would you wanna take your camera with all your precsious travel shots, your phone, your passport, your credit cards and all your money - baffles me every time i hear this one. 'i fell asleep on the beach and now I've lost evreything'. They've no idea who they were with, where they went or the last time they had the items. how many times cleaning staff in rooms get accused of stealing just so that a more reasonable insurance claim can be made rather than oops sorry i was p***d and lost it all. those safety deposit boxes are useful ornaments.
8. 1 2 3... knock out - one for the boys! If you're prone to a testosterone rush of mouthiness after several buckets, then take it out in the Thai boxing ring - don't take it to the bars. With so many different nationalities/cultures on Phi Phi, mouthiness can often be interpreted as an aggressive act and when there are buckets involved peoples ability to count to 10 seems to fade. Spreading the love is so much cooler and has some slightly nicer side effects.
9. Fireshow skipping - It's real fire - don't play with it - it hurts - for a long time after!
10. don't book a return ferry ticket for the next day - silliest thing on the planet to do - you'll miss the ferry for sure and probably not get to see the amazing nature around the island.
Going Solo
Phi Phi Island has to be one of the best places to go it solo on holiday. Its a small island so you bump into the same people quickly. Locals and businesses are friendly, so all you have to do is go back to the same place twice, pass the time of day and 'presto' you have new friends.
Even people holidaying in groups will often break away int he night times - its small and you'll generally bump into your group again later. The atmosphere in bars is social, people are up for meeting new people, so its easy to strike up a conversation with a stranger. The bar staff are paid to be welcoming, be sociable, stir up the fun, so quite different from the European bar.
If your penchant is for activity then there's kayaking, boat trips, rock climbing and diving, all of which you'll end up meeting other people.
Eating out can be one of the worst things for the lone traveller, but on Phi Phi there are lots of options many of which are not formal restaurants where you would need to have a book open to feel comfy.
Here everything is reached on foot so you'll never have that awkward experience of having gone to the wrong place.
Pick a resort with bar, gym & pool like Phi Phi Villa Resort - these slightly larger but informal resorts have staff who'll give you the low down on where to go or if its relaxation you want then you just won't have to go out at all!
the 20 year storm
I woke before the alarm around 7.30am to the sound of heavy rain on the tin roof and water plopping into the bucket catching the leaks.
We get tropical rain here on Phi Phi Island, which tends to be heavy, but in short bursts but this was something different, like an English storm with the chill in the air and the big wind. Locals who have lived here longer than 16 years say they have never experienced anything like it.
I took a walk round the island, as there was no electricity - so nothing else to do. The east side of tonsai bay, where i am, seems to have been the worst hit of the main town area. huge trees have shed giant branches and the locals are busy with machetes hacking them into smaller pieces to cart away.
one thing you'd never see in England is people out int he rain sweeping up the debris, we'd wait till it stopped but at 7.30am everyone was out with their bamboo brooms sweeping up leaves,twigs and water int eh wind.and rain while being fascinated by the wild wet leaves which have splattered themselves over every building.
nothing here seems to be storm waterproof - including the concrete buildings, so even though the damage around the rest of the town is minimal there's still frantic mopping going on.
Bizarre though, that the only place i found a wave on the island was on the less affected Loh Dalum Bay side - big storms on an island, without waves, is something a Cornish girl finds hard to understand.
Midday, it's overcast and breezy but it's like it never happened.
Phi Phi Fireshow pictures
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| From Phi Phi Fireshow |
Preparations for Princess Maya Chakri Sirindhorn visit tomorrow
The Princess arrives tomorrow 27th May around 1.30pm by helicopter. Click here for a bigger slideshow of these photos. I will update the pictures as more photo opportunties arise.
5 days and counting...
Today out came the flags - Thailand loves its flags and brings them out for every special occasion.
I've taken some pictures here of the flag planting operation - as you can see its a pretty serious affair :)
Time for change
The quieter low season this year on Phi Phi has encouraged many businesses to get creative. On nearly every street you can see a business closed and busy renovating. Maybe it's because last year saw a lot of new building completed post tsunami and now the ones that were trading before want to have the same new finish.
Change is always scary, will it turn the paradise island into something commercial and ugly or will it be good?
Change - it's not always a bad thing - when the new materials are natural or when change provides new or improved facilities - change can be a necessary evil.
One change that has been lovely to watch is the gradual movement of locals from the post tsuanmi corrugated metal shacks, happily these are slowly being replaced, but still there are far too many locals living and doing business in something half the size of a european garage.
What hasn't changed is the pride of the locals in their paradise environment; considering the numbers of tourists arriving on Phi Phi everyday its amazingly clean. The beaches are still beautiful, the views breathetaking and the trend to be better continues in the right direction.
Change is always scary, will it turn the paradise island into something commercial and ugly or will it be good?
Change - it's not always a bad thing - when the new materials are natural or when change provides new or improved facilities - change can be a necessary evil.
One change that has been lovely to watch is the gradual movement of locals from the post tsuanmi corrugated metal shacks, happily these are slowly being replaced, but still there are far too many locals living and doing business in something half the size of a european garage.
What hasn't changed is the pride of the locals in their paradise environment; considering the numbers of tourists arriving on Phi Phi everyday its amazingly clean. The beaches are still beautiful, the views breathetaking and the trend to be better continues in the right direction.
Longtails
Just stroll along any beach on Phi Phi and you'll see longtails lined up ready to transport you to even more beautiful and remote beaches on and around Phi Phi Island.
The ribbons and flowers around the boats are for good luck. Many of the boat men have been driving boats in these waters since they were children, so you don't have to go on organised trips you can talk, ask for something different, your own adventure!
1am Curfew on Music
Yes the rumours are true - the music in Phi Phi bars now stops at 1am over the whole island. So no need to rush from the bar you are in to find another or try to persuade the DJ to play on - its the same everywhere - 1am music curfew.
Stopping the music at 1am on a popular party island might seem like going against the grain - but the bars still stay open til the small hours, its just the vibe that changes. Giving time for kicking back, relaxing, enjoying good conversation with other travellers/tourists while still being able to hear the soothing sound of the tropical Andaman sea in the background.
So get your dancing in early and save the conversation and chillin till after 1am!
To see a list of bars on Phi Phi visit Love Phi Phi Directory - Bars page
Stopping the music at 1am on a popular party island might seem like going against the grain - but the bars still stay open til the small hours, its just the vibe that changes. Giving time for kicking back, relaxing, enjoying good conversation with other travellers/tourists while still being able to hear the soothing sound of the tropical Andaman sea in the background.
So get your dancing in early and save the conversation and chillin till after 1am!
To see a list of bars on Phi Phi visit Love Phi Phi Directory - Bars page
Songkran Festival
Aside from the informal celebrations, this year is Phi Phi's second official Songkran Festival, held near Cabana resort (left of the ferry pier). There will be Thai beauty and singing contests, a Grand Parade and of course water games! Kick off is around 4pm.
So whether you go to the bigger cities for the bigger celebrations or come to Phi Phi for something a little more local - be prepared to get a proper soaking.
Easter on Phi Phi
Hot n sunny but there's still plenty of room here and space to relax on the white sandy beaches and catch some rays. Over the full moon period Phi Phi is less busy with backpackers - so the restaurants and bars are more chilled and relaxed - no queues or waiting for a table in your favourite restaurant.
The bars are still closing the music everywhere on the island at 1am - although they do stay open for drinks - so good for everyone! Time for more chilled conversation, meeting new people and listening to the sounds of the Andaman sea.
Coming up soon - Songkran on Phi Phi - 13th April - more soon on this here...
The bars are still closing the music everywhere on the island at 1am - although they do stay open for drinks - so good for everyone! Time for more chilled conversation, meeting new people and listening to the sounds of the Andaman sea.
Coming up soon - Songkran on Phi Phi - 13th April - more soon on this here...
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